After lunch at Everybody’s Cafe, we made our way on foot to A. Consunji Street, which was where a lot of the heritage buildings and houses were located. Since the Vigan trip, I discovered an appreciation of architecture, particularly of times long gone. It’s the most tangible glimpse into the past one can have. Much of my information regarding the heritage buildings came from Ivan Henares, and was a very good travel guide for me.
The first building that we saw was the Virgen de los Remedios Hospital. Unfortunately, I don’t have any information on how old the building was, but it looked pretty old. So old, in fact, that the building is now bank-acquired property, and is up for sale. It’s a shame, because it’s actually a pretty building, despite its age. Instead, the building has been abandoned, and is probably in danger of being demolished soon.
From there, we found ourselves in front of City Hall. The then-municipal hall was first contructed on the same site in 1755, then reconstructed in 1917. It was burned down (again) during World War II, and the city hall was reconstructed shortly after the war.
The City Hall is across the street from the Cathedral of San Fernando. The first church was first built in 1755, under the patronage of King Fernando III. Construction on the current cathedral began in 1788 and was completed in 1808. It was burned down under orders by Gen. Antonio Luna in 1899, and was destroyed by fire in 1939. The cathedral was restored by architect Fernando H. Ocampo.
Unfortunately, we were told that there was a wedding ongoing while we were there, and that the cathedral – also known as the Metropolitan Cathedral – was currently closed to visitors. Still, it was nice to see another example of an old cathedral, even if just from the exterior.
Just outside of the cathedral, but on the cathedral grounds, is a statue of Fernando III, King of Castille and Leon, Spain. It was under his patronage that the first church was built on those grounds.
Across the street from the cathedral was the old Pampanga Hotel, now the Pampanga Lodge and Restaurant. This was actually the first site of the Pampanga High School when it first opened in 1908. It was also used as the Harvardian College, then the Pampanga Hotel and Panciteria, and now the Pampanga Lodge and Restaurant.
From there, was proceeded down A. Consunji Street, and began seeing the heritage houses. Each house seemed to embody a different period in the Philippines’ colonial history, and if there’s one thing they all shared in common, it’s that they were all occupied by the Japanese during the war.
The first house we came across was the Santos-Hizon House. It was built at the turn of the century by Teodoro Santos and Africa Ventura, and is an example of architecture prevalent during the American Colonial Period. The house was purchased by Maria Hizon, then inherited by her brother, Augusto Hizon. His heirs now reside in the house.
Then we came across the Hizon-Singian House, which was declared a heritage house by the National Historical Institute on January 27, 2003. This bahay na bato from the Spanish Period was built in 1870 by Anacleto Hizon, gobernadorcillo of San Fernando from 1877-1879 and 1886-1887, and Victoria Singian de Miranda Y De Ocampo. It was occupied in 1896 by a Spanish general, then used as a military hospital and barracks by the Japanese Imperial Army in 1943 and 1944, and later served as headquarters of American General Walter Krueger during the liberation period.
Next was the Hizon-Ocampo House. This house was the birthplace of Fernando Ocampo Y Hizon in August 7, 1897. (If you’ll recall, Fernando H. Ocampo restored the Cathedral of San Fernando.) He is known as the pioneer of modern Filipino architecture. Aside from the Metropolitan Cathedral, other famous works include the restored Manila Cathedral, the Central Seminary Building of UST, and the Sacred Heart Noviciate Building in Novaliches.
Next was the Tabacalera House, another example of architecture during the American Colonial Period. The ground floor of the house the Tabacalera offices. In 1943-1944, it was used by the Japanese Imperial Army as the headquarters of the Kempeitai. The house has some really cool details, like the blue bricks on the walls seen here.
We then came across the Consunji House, home of Don Antonio Consunji, Gobernadorcillo of San Fernando in 1892. He was actually removed from office by Spanish authorities because of his presence during Jose Rizal’s visit to San Fernando in June of that year. Then, during the Philippine Revolution, he became Presidente Municipal of San Fernando from 1898 to 1899. (And yes, that’s my mom in the picture below.)
The last heritage house was saw was the Lazatin House. Another house from the American Colonial Period, it was built in 1925 by Serafin Lazatin Y Ocampo and Encarnacion Singian Y Torres. During World War II, it served as residence to General Masahru Homma.
Across the street from the Lazatin House was another interesting building, the Essel Supermarket. It is probably from the same era as the Virgen de los Remedios Hospital, but I’m not sure. I guess the building style and the sign were appealing to me, perhaps because of its very retro look. I also liked that the picture captured two little kids who were thrilled to be part of the picture. Ah, serendipity.
From A. Consunji Street, we went to where the Pampanga Capitol was. In front of the capitol was a veritable sea of sand. Apparently, it’s the Macario Arnedo Park, and according to a banner on the grounds (and confirmed by someone I saw in the capitol building), it’s actually in the middle of renovation. Nearly buried in the sand are monuments to Jose Abad Santos, Pres. Diosdado Macapagal, and Honorio Ventura.
Also on the ground of the park is a statue of Benigno “Ninoy” Aquino.
The centerpiece of the park is a monument to General Maximino Hizon, who, according to WikiPilipinas, was a Katipunero who became Commandante General of Pampanga. He and his men attacked the garrison in San Fernando, and ordered the execution of parish priests in Mexico and San Fernando.
In a clear sign that we were still in the Philippines, the park ground also had a section exclusively for banners protesting and calling for the resignation of Pampanga Governor Panlilio.
The Pampanga Capitol is a beautiful building. It was built in 1904, shortly after the provincial capital was transferred to San Fernando from Bacolor. It was also the site of a major battle during World War II betwen guerilla forces and the Japanese Imperial Army.
I managed to get a sneak peek inside, and it was lovely. The guy I kinda-sorta chatted with (and who informed me of the renovation on the park) thought I was with the media. I… guess being a blogger makes me media? heh.
From there, I decided to look for the old San Fernando Train Station, because of its historic nature. It was where Jose Rizal disembarked on his visit to San Fernando, and perhaps more importantly, it was the end point of the Death March during World War II. There weren’t any tracks or clear signs as to where it may be, save for a little street with a sign that read, “Welcome Sitio 6 PNR.” (PNR being the Philippine National Railways.) With that, as well as a map that indicated the train station was in that general direction, I was on the hunt.
I was greeted by one sad sight. Not because of all the history around the place, but because it hadn’t been taken care of at all. All that marked the historicity of the location was a route marker, a commemorative stone, and a heritage plaque on the side of the train station.
The train station, which I think is actually a nice bit of architecture, was now just an abandoned rundown building. It’s now surrounded by houses, and there’s actually a basketball hoop attached to one side of this heritage site. For one reason or another, the arches of the train station are being covered by some unsightly hollow blocks. Even the route marker signifying the end point of the Death March didn’t escape vandalism.
The other side of the building is overrun with weeds, and the archways are covered up with sheet iron. This is definitely not how a heritage building should be treated, especially a spot as historic as the San Fernando Train Station. This is a site that saw Jose Rizal, and the brave soldiers who marched all the way here from Bataan, only to be stuffed in cramped trains on the way to Capas, Tarlac. After surviving wars and other great calamities, it has now succumbed to neglect. It’s a shame, because the actual building seems to be inhabitable. It could be restored and fixed up as a museum or a monument. I hope something is done about this.
Later that day, we went to check out another heritage building, one that was restored and preserved (thankfully): Pampanga High School, which was celebrating its 100th anniversary. The main school building was completed in 1935 and follows Standard Plan No. 20 of Gabaldon schoolhouses. It was restored in 2006 as part of the Heritage Schoolhouse Restoration Program, a joint effort by the Department of Education and the Heritage Conservation Society.
Unfortunately, the school ground were closed (it was a Saturday, after all), but there was a gap in the gate that allowed me to marvel at the heritage building from afar. Incidentally, this was the alma mater of my stepdad, giving me a personal connection to the school, albeit in a six-degrees kind of way.
That pretty much ended my tour of the heritage buildings in San Fernando, Pampanga. I missed a few, but that’s what happens when you only have a limited time to explore. I also snapped some pictures of a few interesting buildings I saw, such as the Salud II Fabric Center (a tall, think building that looked somewhat space-agey), the old Central Luzon Technological Institute (now housing a bunch of stores), and the Dayrit Canlas Building (a well-preserved commercial building from possibly the ’50s or ’60s).
There was also a statue/sculpture/monument along the road whose nature I don’t know about, mostly because I just passed by it while on the jeepney. I never got to take a look at it up close, or find out why it was there in the first place.
So that’s the end of my tour of the heritage sites, houses, and buildings in San Fernando, Pampanga. It was a nice glimpse into a past that I’ve only read about. It’s still a fascinating topic for me, and this experience only made me more curious and interested in heritage locations.
When I next update about my San Fernando trip, it’s about the big event: The Giant Lantern Festival!
16 comments
JayPee says:
Jan 5, 2009
hello! I really want to thank you for doing this effort to showcase these historical places of san fernando. It is my hometown and I am really into history. in fact I love history. I just hope not only the local government, but also those who live near the train station would do something about the place. c’mon! It’s a tresure.
monette says:
Jan 25, 2009
I completely agree with JayPee… it’s learning the past that allows us to appreciate the present, albeit, the future. and there’s no better way to learn the past but thru these heritages.
rene yabut says:
Mar 27, 2009
naalala kupa nung 5 years old ako, diyan kami nagpapalipad ng sarangola ng kapatid ko sa pnr o san fernando train station. malungkot isipin na napabayaan ang building na yan siguru dahil narin sa walang pondo para ipa repair, pati riles ng tren ay tinayuan na ng bahay. para siyang simbulo nang ating lipunan walang asenso at walang pagbabago walang nagmamalasakit para ito ay maayos, mga matay hindi parin nabuksan animoy bulag sa katotohanan. para itong pasabi o mensahe ni rizal na hanggan ngayon marami paring pilipino na lumuluhod sa mga prayle, biruin mong pari ng simbahang katoliko ang governador sa pampanga. pari din ang nanguna sa eksekkyusyo ni rizal sa luneta. hindi parin naiintindihan ang mensahe ni dr. jose rizal.
THE FILIBUSTER says:
May 30, 2009
THE HIPOCRITE SAID “I DONT DO PROFIT GENERATING BUSINESS INSIDE THE CHURCH”!
THE HIPOCRITE SAID AGAIN “I DONT HAVE AN IDOL IN ANY SHAPE OR FORM NOR ANYTHING THAT RESEMBLES A MAN OR AN ANIMAL AROUND ME”!
LOOK AROUND AND OPEN YOUR EYES!
LOOK INSIDE AND DONT LOOK OUTSIDE, BE REALISTIC AND TRUTHFUL, DENIAL IS ONE OF THE STRONGEST DELUSION THAT A MAN IS CAPABLE OF.
GUILT IS BEING USED TO CONTROL ONES MIND.
DONT YOU SEE, MORE THAN 300 YEARS OF SLAVERY MILLIONS OF FILIPINOS WERE KILLED BY SPANIARDS, THEY USED RELIGION TO CONTROL FILIPINOS. SEE, AT THE END WE WERE CALLED INSURECTOS! REBELS! TRAITORS IN OUR OWN LAND.
THEN WHO WERE CONSIDERED THE SAINT NOW? IS IN IT THESE SAME PEOPLE WHO ENSLAVED US FOR SO MANY YEARS.
ronzkie says:
Mar 1, 2010
im leaving near PNR, i’m sad what other people has done to the bldg and its sourroundings,sana the municipality will do something.i want to cry every morning we cross there.
Brent Cerdena says:
Mar 1, 2010
Wow!!! Thanks for blogging on this!:-) I would have to agree with you about the old San Fernando Train Station turning it into something that would highlight the old San Fernando’s glory.:-) And oh boy you missed the PASUDECO sugar mill. Please come again!:-) I am a proud Fernandino.:-)
dennis says:
Mar 2, 2010
used to live right infront of jashs(pampanga high) and mom used to teach science there, vividly remember walking from jashs to Capitol via the Train station, then walk to essel, front will be the lazatin house where in other end of the block will be the pampanga hotel, front of methodist church, The Cathedral which infront will be San Fernando Municipal, Cathedral’s back would be B mendoza Street,which will take me to Sfes( Elementary school)which has 2 theatres infront and the Iglesia ni Cristo going back to High School Blvd, where my mom only asked me to buy a cup of Vinegar HAHAHA. thanks ,still remember the place after 23 years.
Richard Paz says:
Apr 3, 2010
I was surprised to the see the windows now blocked by a wall of hollow-blocks. They were not there about 5 years ago. Is this how we treat a historic monument?? oh….yes…and the basketball hoop!!??
Louie Sison says:
Apr 22, 2010
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Rhen says:
Apr 22, 2010
My sister was born in Virgen delos Remedios hospital and now she’s 14 yrs old. I still remember roaming the floors of the building and looking at preserved fetuses and internal organs. It’s sad that the place had to be shutdown.
When I was a kid my mom usually buy her groceries at Essel supermarket. It’s hard to believe that now it’s just an abandoned building.
Thanks for posting this blog. 😀
Pampanga Directory says:
Aug 23, 2010
Thank you for featuring Pampanga. If you would like to know more of our province, please visit pampangadirectory.net
Welcome to http://pampangadirectory.net/ In this portal, you can find Pampanga local news, province guides, business categories, sports media, society issues,buy and sell products, services, people, tourist destinations, personals and online community.
Richard C. Manaloto says:
Aug 23, 2010
Thank you very much for taking time to feature my hometown. San Fernando is my birthplace, the Plaza infront of the Cathedral was my playground, spent highschool days at Pampanga High (JASHS), courted my 1st girlfriend while she was studying and later on worked at the Virgen de los Remedios Medical Center, it was also in this hospital where my beloved mother died. I can still vividly remember the lahar that almost buried the whole town and forced us to leave our beloved hometown in 1995. It’s good to see that most of the structures are still standing and I hope the city government will do its share in preserving our heritage.
Linda Manzanilla Manzon says:
Sep 22, 2010
Nakita ko ang Virgen delos Remedios Hospital diyan ko pinanganak si Edwin na bunso kong anak noong 1969,nakita ko rin ang mga lumang bahay sa Consonji St.diyan kami namamasko ng mga kapatid ko nong mga bata pa kami,sa kapitolyo don naman kami madalas naglalaro nandon ang statue ni Abad Santos, nagpapadulas kami sa hagdanan nito.Madalas din kaming namamasyal sa estasyon ng tren dahil may lolo akong nagtrabaho doon.Hanggang sa Pasadeco ay nakakarating kami doon.
Linda Manzanilla Manzon says:
Sep 23, 2010
Para akong bumalik sa pagkabata ng makita ko ang mga picture sa SO NOT LOST ang bahay kasi ng mga magulang ko ay sa tapat ng SPELAPCO,halos
doon ako lumaki kaya kabisado ko ang mga lugar na ito. Napakasaya ng San Fernando tuwing sasapit ang Pasko.
So Not Lost! » Blog Archive » Best of the Blog 2010 says:
Dec 30, 2010
[…] 7 Tips to Save Money in Singapore 2. San Fernando, Pampanga: Part Two – Heritage Sites and Buildings 3. San Fernando, Pampanga: Part One – Food Tripping 4. 5 Typical Tourist Things I Do (and Not […]
Mel says:
May 19, 2011
Hi,
I’m planning on a Pampanga day-tour with friends next week and I’ve researched the places and locations we want to visit. I’m just not sure of its proximity to each other and what kind of transpo it requires (walking, jeepney, trikes) so we can be ready with the expenses also. I only have a few questions:
1. Are all the ancestral houses along consuji street open for public viewing and touring? It doesnt mention kasi online if it’s private or government owned.
2. From Consuji street how do we go to the Pampanga Capitol? How far is it?
3. From the Pampanga Capitol, how did you go to the old Train Station?
and lastly, about your foodtripping blog
4.What are the price ranges/menu price of foods at Everyboy’s Cafe?
Thanks so much
that’s basically it. Hope you can aid me! Your blog’s really helpful and motivating.